A Welsh picnic

By Pavithra Sankaran on Friday, March 12, 2010 - 15:20

Pavithra Sankaran goes backpacking through southern Wales, through towns steeped in history

The British isles are the number one tourist destination in the world, but Indians seem to be somewhat unexcited by the idea of visiting the United Kingdom. It is only eight on our list of popular destinations. Which is a pity because the islands, when not covered in a pall of gray, are truly spectacular.

As with every travel destination, Britain has its share of under-promoted, hidden treasures. The hilly region of Wales is certainly among these. The veil over Wales is being lifted, but only slowly. The region remains difficult to access (comparatively, of course!), some places have no trains, and some still have no mobile phone signal! I was delighted to discover that even in the developed world, there are places where the tidal wave of technology has not washed ashore.

Most visitors to Wales start off at the capital of Cardiff. Itself a town worth exploring, Cardiff is also a good base from which to explore the nearby offerings of southern Welsh coast. Many of the places I mention below are just a few hours drive away from Cardiff.

These are small towns along the southern coast of Wales, also known as the coast of Glamorgan. Many of these coastal spots have now reinvented themselves as tourist destinations, from former avatars as market or harbour towns. That they've kept their history is part of their charm.

Bridgend: Midway between Cardiff and the other big Welsh city of Swansea, Bridgend's attractions include a castle, a lovely river walk, a ruined fortress and medieval church, and of course, lots of shopping! Bridgend is the holiday shopper's main destination in this part of Wales. Small specialist stores stocking the strange, quirky and antique occupy many nooks while the big brands flash their neon signs at you. The Rhiw Shopping centre and the Covered Market are only two of the many splurge worthy destinations. North of the town is the MacArthur Glen Designer Outlet, fantastic window shopping and idea-staling is to be had, if the pocket does not permit any actual buying!

Barry: An old, old Welsh town, Barry is packed with history and historic buildings, ruined chapels and graveyards. Barry was once a coal-exporting town and its docks are still testimony to those days. The Whitmore Bay with its lovely promenade is a great place for a day out by the sea. The Barry Island Pleasure Park is where you go for rides, snacks and laughter. The Knap with its lake and quiet gardens is where you head to escape the bustle of the former two destinations. Or head to Porthkerry Country Park - more than 200 acres of undulating green! What completely took my fancy, however, was Barry Island Railway Heritage Centre - a marvellous place for steam engine enthusiasts. Yes, they have mementoes you can buy - perfect little replicas of the steam engine of yore!

Penarth: The perfect getaway town, Penarth has magnificent views of the sea, beautiful gardens, quaint bistros and cafes. Relaxation is inevitable. The churches and public buildings along the town centre are intact. A Victorian architectural buff like me has the most wonderful time gaping at the sheer scale of the Victorian imagination. From the Esplanade, a coastal path leads to Lavernock Point, providing breathtaking views of the sea. The pier at the beginning of the Esplanade stretches far out into the sea. The high point of my visit to Penarth was the Waterbus ride back to Cardiff Bay - once out to sea from Penarth, you can see across the bay all the way to Somerset! Truly breathtaking!

All these places are just off the M4 motorway and well-connected by buses and trains from Cardiff. Affordable and enjoyable, they offer a variety of experiences of the new form southern Wales is taking. What is most remarkable is that these places have managed to keep historic sites and buildings alive, intact and attractive, while constructing modern attractions like waterfront shopping and eating complexes. While spending opportunities are plenty and delightful, it is the history of these places that provides the charm to keep visitors coming.

For more information visit: www.glamorganheritagecoast.com

Pavithra Sankaran is a part-time writer and full-time schemer. Her writing is mostly about wildlife, conservation and travel. Her schemes include a 24-hour set-dosa delivery service, humour lessons for Indian politicians and a women-only public transport system.